The Observer

Issue date: 11/6/09 Section: Focus

Veronica Lake helped epitomized the classic 1940's look, showing off wavy hair for round faces. [Click to enlarge]

Reese Witherspoon displays a stylish hairdo for those with heart shaped faces, letting her hair fall just below her jawline. [Click to enlarge]

You can have all the right clothes, accessories, and makeup, but a woman's hairstyle is the element of an ensemble that separates the fashion forward from the fashion right now. Your hair can transform your face, outfit, and mind-set in the best or the worst way. It's easy to get used to that daily ponytail or boring bob, but with a few extra minutes these simple do's can become ready for the runway.

The most important step to getting those high fashion locks you've been craving is the base cut. A bad haircut will look bad no matter how much you curl, comb, or pin it. Hair is like architecture; you can't create a beautiful design without a reliable foundation. The right cut is critical and finding the right style for you is the most important hair lesson. One haircut may look amazing on one person and terrible on another, so always be aware of what flatters you. With the right base, the styling will come naturally.

Picking out the most flattering cut for you may not always be intuitive. The first thing to do when exploring a new look is examine your face shape. The shape of your face is the key indicator of what look will play up your best features. There are five general face shapes: round, square, oval, long, and heart-shaped. Use a headband or bobby pins to pull your hair back so your face is exposed. While looking in the mirror, relax your muscles, and trace an outline of your face onto your reflection into the mirror. Move to the side; observe the shape you have drawn, and compare it to one of the standard geometrical shapes mentioned above.

For those baby-like round faces out there, your goal is to pick a look that slims your face. Cuts that fall just below the chin work best on you. Soft, graduated layers make your face appear slimmer and remove bulk from the sides. Try adding wispy and tapered ends to help de-emphasize the roundness of your face and make the look edgier. The right bangs can really flatter your shape, but stick with a long side-swept look instead of blunt bangs. The way the side-swept bangs will fall on your face creates an illusion of slimness. Avoid blunt short cuts and short curly hair. These styles will only add more volume to your face and make you look chubby.

If you have a square face, you'll want to play down your strong, angular jaw. Women who fall into this category should embrace texture. Whether it's in the form of curls or choppy ends, these messy cuts soften your features and create a really chic and easy to wear look. Long locks work best on you, but you can get away with short, spiky cuts if you prefer a bolder look. Hair icon Jennifer Aniston is the perfect inspiration for you ladies. Just go into the salon and ask for the "Rachel,."

The oval face is the most versatile shape and these women can pull off almost any look. Whether it's short, long, straight, or wavy, you can't go wrong. If you are one of these fortunate women, then play up your best facial feature. If you have an amazing bone structure, then consider an angular bob that accentuates your chin, or if you have great eyes, try blunt or side-swept bangs to draw attention to them. However, like any facial shape there are definitely looks to avoid. Stay away from short layers that add height to your head, as this may elongate your face too much. Also, if you have thick curly hair, avoid a blunt cut because you'll end up looking like a pyramid.

Long faces should never be dragged down and women with this kind of face should focus on adding width. Brow-skimming bangs and chin-length bobs are ideal for you because they create an illusion of width. Curls and waves are also styles to try because they add volume to your lean look. Sex and the City star Sarah Jessica Parker balances her long face with wildly curly tresses, creating a very flattering and fashionable style. Extremes don't work well on you, so avoid super-short pixie cuts and long straight styles.

Finally, for all the heart-shaped faces out there, your romantic silhouette is characterized by a pointy chin and prominent cheekbones. In order to draw attention away from your chin, pick a style that emphasizes your eyes and cheeks. Side-swept bangs or brow-grazing fringes look great on you. Hair that falls just below or at the jawline is the best length to work with. Avoid short, blunt-cut bangs and choppy layers, since these will add volume to the top of your face and draw attention to your pointy chin.

This season's looks are easy and fun, so don't be afraid to explore new styles. Add a feathered headband for a fun accessory or an elegant brooch for a dressier look. Regardless of what you do always remember that hair grows back, so if you make a mistake and hate your new do, you can always try again next time.

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